Further along the coast from Camber, Rye and Dungeness if you’re looking for where to eat in Hastings, and its cooler, younger sister, St. Leonard’s-on-Sea, you’ll find another enclave of flourishing creative spirit and vibrant culinary outposts. Further afield there’s more Michelin-stars, foodie pubs and dynamic vineyards to discover.
Given that Hastings has the largest fleet of beach-launched fishing boats in Europe, seafood is a good place to begin. Start on Rock-a-Nore Road at Maggie’s for fish and chips and rolling sea views, its daily catch comes in from the Fish Market that sits beneath it. Opening its doors in 2019, The Royal has already garnered a commendable and unwavering place in the Michelin guide, who describe it as “the sort of pub that everyone wants at the bottom of their street”. Expect the likes of wild bass ceviche with rhubarb salsa, dover sole with romesco and chimichurri or lamb shoulder with butter beans paired with delicious wines.
Take friends to Farmyard for the group feasting menu and natural wine, and for date nights head for the elegant seafood restaurant St. Clement’s in St. Leonards’ artists’ quarter Mercatoria. Art lovers can hit the Hastings Contemporary gallery and make a stop at its café, located on the upper floor, with a balcony and sea views, it supports plenty of local independent businesses. To eat, drink and be merry try First In, Last Out in Hastings Old Town, it’s got a relaxed atmosphere and its own brewery. The St. Leonard, The Stag Inn and The Crown are another trio of excellent boozers.
Colourful Goat Ledge is a stalwart on the St. Leonard’s foodie scene, right on the beach, it serves up fish rolls, a range of ice cream and boozy hot chocolates. While the Dragon Bar on George Street is your place for well-shaken cocktails.
If you are a true foodie and don’t mind a little drive, take a trip to Seasalter near Whitstable, perhaps via Canterbury to The Sportsman, probably the best food in the southeast – a Michelin starred pub offering something truly special in a relaxed environment – worth the one hour’s drive… For a medieval Kentish gem that’s been given a serious renovation, the historied Boys Hall (Samuel Pepys was a one-time guest, as was Charles I), is a masterclass in chic interiors and rich comforting dishes and local wine.
For a more of a fine dining experience head to The Swan at Chapel Down – a fabulous restaurant amongst the award-winning vines of Chapel Down – English wine and English food at its best. If you’re heading to Bodiam Castle (or on your way back) The White Dog is the perfect spot for a drink with amazing views of the castle with fantastic food. Another Bodiam favourite with locally sourced ingredients on the menu is The Curlew. On the Isle of Oxney (near Rye) The Ferry Inn is a quintessential 17th century pub in the middle of nowhere, selling good beer and food.
Teetering on the Kentish border, The Bell in Ticehurst is a handsome Michelin-starred 16th century Tudor inn. With prints from Graham Sutherland, signed Francis Bacon artwork and top hats as lampshades, the decor is a miscellany of cool and quirky. And the menu, which the Michelin-guide describes as “hearty dishes with a refined edge” is spot on. A short drive from Ticehurst, Birchwood, set in Flimwell Park has a highly coveted Michelin Green Star for sustainability and overlooks 46 acres of ancient birch and chestnut woodlands. Look out for its monthly supper clubs.